1986 Honda CR500, Clear Oklahoma Title - motorcycles/scooters - by owner - vehicle automotive bike sale - craigslist (2024)

Here are the major components of the process:

1. Engine:
a. Cases, Cylinder, and Cylinder Heard were sent to Bobby Crumpley with Houston Vapor Blasting 409-392-8530, where Bobby did a nice job cleaning up these parts.
b. This 1986 motor is using the newer aluminum two piece clutch cover. The internal clutch components are all for a 1986 motor. I am using the Gates 19764 radiator hose to make the connection from the back of the cylinder to the water pump outlet. The rest of the hoses are silicone. Of course the main reason for the swap to the newer clutch cover was to eliminate the magnesium unit that was prone to corrode. Incidentally, every water pump component is new including the impeller though the impeller is the original unit.
c. Back to the cases, I noticed that the oil drain plug had been stripped. I sent that case to Tom Morgan TMR 949-421-7112, where he did a professional repair, like everything else he does. You can see on the case where he embossed his logo near the repair.
d. I sent the cylinder off to Eric Gorr 630-825-5645 where he trued up the bore with a fresh 90.5 mm cross hatch. He sent it back to me with the correct Wossner piston. Of course, the ring end-gap is correct and the circlips are positioned correctly, and the piston was drilled along where it passes the exhaust bridge. We left the porting stock. I posed the question in a couple of CR500 groups as to whether to leave the “On / Off” power band or whether to have Eric smooth it out into something more linear. The overwhelming response was to leave the “Split Personality,” “Abrupt,” OEM style powerband, so that is what I did.
e. I sent the OEM crank to Ken O’Connor Racing 860-230-5003 up in Connecticut, for a rebuild. I went with one of the Vinco short rods and their thrust washers and bearings. Since it is still a short rod motor, there isn't a spacer between the cylinder and the cases, though I've done those too without a problem.
f. Once all the parts came back I sent the head, cylinder, cases, frame, subframe and new FMF Gnarly pipe to Mark White at MTW Powder Coating 918-638-4760, where he coated the head, cylinder, cases and FMF Pipe in black, and the Frame and SubFrame in Honda Flash Red.
g. As far as the clutch goes, I am running the OEM Basket and Inner Clutch Hub, but have all new clutch plates and steel drive plates from Vintco. I soaked the clutch plates in Rotella for 24 hours before the install. I also replaced all of the clutch springs and fasteners, which I believe in doing all the time.
h. So, with all the parts making it back, I went for the final assembly. I used all OEM Honda bearings, including the two bearings that the clutch actuating arm rides. I warmed the freshly power coated cases to 250 degrees while simultaneously freezing the bearings on dry ice. Everything went back together easily. The transmission gears were perfect. I buttoned it all back together with all new nickel hardware from Ken at Spec Bolt - 909-675-0190.
i. On the electrical side, I am running the OEM stator, rotor and CDI. I did replace the coil with a Mondo Coil from Jason at MSV Racing 541-531-8868. The rotor /flywheel, does had a weight welded to it. I believe that weight to be a 10 ounce weight, though not 100% sure.
j. For the carburetor, I replaced the old Keihin PJ with a genuine Keihin 38mm Air Striker. Adam MiLLar MRE (MiLLar Race Engineering) gave me this jet recipe years ago: CGK Needle, #2 from the top, #7 Slide, 168 Main, 50 Pilot and V Force 2 Reeds. So, that’s what is in it. I love Adam’s billet reed spacer / V Force Reed block, but was afraid to run that on an 86 cylinder for concern that the air boot might get pushed into the shock spring because and 86 already has a long intake tract. Of course the float height is correct, the float bowl gasket is new, as are the vent lines.

2. Suspension:
a. Front Forks - were rebuilt by me, all new seals, bushings and fluids (Maxima %wt.), set to OEM specs. 1986 was a big year for the 500 as these were the first year for the cartridge fork as opposed to only damping rod technology. Of course the blue fork leg protectors are new.
b. Rear Shock - I sent this unit to Clark and Parker out at Noleen J6 760-955-8757, where they disassembled, cleaned, replaced wear parts, shaft seals, and the rubber bumper in addition to adding fresh fluid and a nitrogen recharge. These shocks came with 5.0 Kg springs. I put on a newer, more modern 5.0 Kg spring after having it powder coated blue. This bike comes with the OEM 5.0 Kg Spring too. When I received the Shock back from Noleen, O replaced the upper shock bearing with a new one from All-Balls.
c. Rear Shock Linkage - I replaced every bearing in the shock linkage. All these new greased bearings combined with the rebuilt shock which has its own new upper shock bearing makes for a tight rear suspension.
d. Swing-Arm - I replaced all the bearings here too. All of the new components came from All-Balls too. This Swing-Arm was in good shape. Sometimes you get wear from someone neglecting to change the chain slider. That was not the case here. With that being said, I did replace the chain slider, its mounting hardware, the chain guide, the chain guard, and used Lock-Tite where appropriate. Lastly, all of the chain adjuster components were removed and thoroughly cleaned, as well as the center pivot bolt and the rear axle.

3. Front and Rear Wheel sets:
a. Front and Rear wheels are the 1986 OEM wheels and spokes. The wheels are true and the spokes are not seized. These are 38 year old rims that are not dented or cracked. Now, can you find marks on the rims from prior tire changes? Yes you can.
b. Front and Rear hubs are the OEM units and have not been repainted or powdercoated. I did replace the wheel bearings in the front and rear hubs. I also installed new EBC brake shoes and springs in the rear hub.
c. Tires - The Front tire is an IRC M5B EVO in a 80/100-21 size, which is the OEM size. The tube is a heavy duty tube from Tusk. This also has a new rim strip and bead-lock. The Rear tire is also an IRC M5B EVO. Now this one is in a 120/80-21 size. The OEM size for the 1986 was 110/100 -18. The 120/80-21 is ½ inch wider and 1 inch shorter according to the book. In reality, there is not that much difference in height because the IRC M5B EVO has such tall knobbies. The rear has a Tusk heavy duty tube, and new rim strip as well. For the front and the back, I cleaned out the oxidation and scaling that builds up in the valley of the rim. That scaling makes it more difficult to remove or install tires, plus, I just clean everything imaginable before putting something back together.
d. Chain and Sprockets - These bikes came OEM with 14 tooth front sprocket and a 51 tooth rear sprocket. Here I chose to run a new gold Primary Drive “X” ring chain with a new 14 tooth front sprocket and new 51 tooth aluminum rear sprocket, also made by Primary Drive.

4. Brakes, Front and Rear - I rebuilt the front master cylinder and front brake caliper and replaced the front brake line. Moose supplied the master cylinder and calip[er replacement parts. As you might imagine, the Dot 4 brake fluid is fresh. The front brake disc is the OEM unit. Now, you will notice the “Works Style” front disc guard. If you prefer to take off that guard, I have the OEM front caliper bolts that come with the bike. As far as the rear brakes are concerned, I installed new EBC Pads and Springs. Now, if you really want good drum brake actuation, I recommend taking a sharpie and blacking out both brake pads. Then, go out and run the bike, being sure to use the rear brake. Come back, take it all apart and take notice as to what part of the blacked out portion on your pad has worn off. Then, go back and sand that area down a bit so that more of the show comes into contact with the drum. I have not done this. The tires have not even touched the ground.

5. Controls - I am running the OEM triple clamps but have replaced the steering stem bearings and bearing races. The bars are new Pro-Taper 7/8ths SE Series Kevin Windham’s bend with Pro-Taper Pillow Top grips that are installed with safety wire. The kill switch is one that attaches to the back of the clutch perch. It is not OEM, but those do eliminate one thing from being clamped to your bars. The clutch perch is OEM with a new Motion Pro OEM style lever. I have the actual OEM lever with the bike. The clutch cable is a new unit from Motion Pro. I also lubed it before I installed it. The same is true for the new Motion Pro throttle cable. I always lube new cables.

6. Seat - This 86 has the original seat foam and seat pan. The seat cover is a new cover from DC Plastics 989-883-3135.

7. Plastics - All of the plastic on the bike are the 38 year old OEM Honda plastics with the exception of the front number plate. When I bought this bike initially, it had the wrong shade of red in terms of the number plate. So the number plate is new, also from DC Plastics, but is the correct Honda Flash Red. The decals are all new and came from “factoryridedecals” off of eBay. They do a nice job.

8. Tank- This is the OEM Tank and radiator shroud combination. There is a scratch on the left side of the tank, but the petco*ck has been rebuilt, the fuel line is new, and the O ring between the petco*ck is new and OEM too.

9. Cooling system - I mentioned earlier that every water pump component has been replaced: fasteners, gaskets, separator, internal oil seal and the corresponding coolant seal (these go back to back), the impeller, the internal copper washer, the drain bolt and its copper washer. Now, as far as the radiators are concerned, they are modern, oversized, aluminum, come with their own guards, and were made by GPI. The Hoses were manufactured by GPI too. All of these components were on the bike when I bought it. So, they are not brand new but very suitable for use on a bike like this that already has so many new components.

10. Exhaust. It has the OEM exhaust manifold. I just cleaned every spec of carbon off of it. The manifold has the new “clip style” metal gasket. The pipe is new. It is an FMF Gnarly. I had it blasted and powder coated black, since the OEM pipes were black. The muffler is a brand new unit made by DEP in the United Kingdom. This muffler is specific to the 1986 Honda CR500, and hard to find. It is new, freshly packed and looks great. Now, there is supposed to be a mid pipe that goes between the muffler and the pipe itself. It is pretty much a straight shot that is 31.75 mm OD on one side and 34.925 mm OD on the other. I made a mid pipe out of aluminum. That is on there as of 5/31/2024. My plan is to make a steel one too. When I do, this machine will come with both. Other than that, all of the hangers are new.

Overall, you have just about everything conceivable replaced with the exception of the plastic, and wheel sets. I thought about replacing the plastic, powder coating the wheels and hubs and lacing on new spokes, but there were a few things that went through my mind. 1. It is a 38 year old very desirable machine. 2. Those plastics look pretty darn good for being that old. 3. The wheels have marks from previous tire changes, but if you make everything new, it becomes cost prohibitive. 4. It is one thing to be running a 38 year old bore without knowing if it is even round but it is another to throw away 38 year old body work that has survived. 5. All in all, I think the blend of the new, or the reconditioned, or the rebuilt, combined with a handful of parts that show wear make the bike something that makes you want to ride it as opposed to something possibly sterile that you hate to touch.